Questions

[Christophe of Grey]

Sheesk! I go away for a month and this forum, leatherworking, ends. How about it folks. Got questions? Would some of you like to learn how to make your own vambraces, improperly called bracers, pouches, or ring belts (easy)? How about issues like how do they get those fancy patterns on leather? Or how do I make my leather armor hard? Or how do I make leather armor? Or how about making a quiver and matching archer arm guards? Post your requests here and we will begin to share the information. If all are in agreement, I would be happy to walk folks through any of the projects mentioned above. Pictures and how-to text as needed, plus personal adivce and guidance.

:balrog:

[darkdragon]

Hey Christophe..I dont have any questions on leather working, but if you need any assistance with this forum, please let me know..I ahve been doing leather work for 28 years now and would be more than happy to help out..

Maybe if some pictures were posted in this forum, the members might get curious about leather work..what do you think ? sound good to you ?

[Christophe of Grey]

darkdragon,
Sounds good to me. I made this thread to get some dialog going on the forum. Having more that one opinion or "resident expert" is always a good thing. Posting pictures is also a great idea. I have several posted in the art gallery of selected things I've made. Maybe if you posted some pictures of some of your stuff we could get some interest going here. My goal is to help folks out. People who vist this forum are in need of leather accessories for thier outfits and often either the item is simply not readily available or too costly to purchase. Besides, folks who frequent these types of forums generally, in my experience, get a great deal of satisfaction out of simply making the items themselfs. I, for one, am more than happy to share my experience with these folks.

Again, welcome aboard!

:balrog:

[darkdragon]

Thank you Christophe. Should I list it in my signature ? I will post some of my work as soon as possible..We might try and start threads on some of the basics. Like patterns, cutting, edgeing, dying, tooling etc. Let me know where you want to start. I am ready to get going. Perhaps we should announce who the experts are and that way the members can direct their questions accordingly..Let me know what you think..

Thanks again...

[Christophe of Grey]

darkdragon,
As far as I'm concerned you can list yourself as co-moderator of the leatherworking forum. I think that way folks will know who these "experts" are that keep jumping in here and there. I also like your idea of starting threads for tooling, patterns, etc. There also seems a great deal of interest in web sites that are helpful. Maybe the next step is for you to post some selected samples of your work so folks can get an idea of what you do, specifically do you have areas that you specialize in. For example, while I have done armor, I specialize more in accessories. Too many metal benders around! Besides, I find the accessories more interesting and a better avenue for creativity.

I got involved in a costume contest on the costume forum thread. We had lots of interest and a few folks who submitted their costumes. I've been trying to think of some way to use that idea here to generate some traffic. Ideas?

Also, are you a member of any re-enactment groups or do you merchant at Ren Faires? Maybe a short bio of self would be of interest to the readers.

:balrog:

[darkdragon]

I like doing scabbards, belts, pouches, vambracers etc. I suppose you can call them accessories too. I like to fit the scabbards to the swords and vambracers to the individual. I do get involved with the Society for Creative Anachronism. As well as other re-enactment groups. There are several here in my area that I get involved with. One in paticular is right here in my town..We meet once a month in the local park and have festivals. We try to educate others and dont just focus on the re-enactment, we try to give the people who attend the festival an over all education regarding history and the life of the period. We also give instruction on making chainmaille and the accessories. Most of the members of the group make their own costumes and accessories that they use. In addition, we caution each visitor to the festival as to the kinds of weapons that are used at the festivals..We use only SCA approved weapons and not the wall hangers that some think are used. The weapons we use are battle ready and not a toy..We feel that it is important that the visitors know this and don't try to use decorative weapons for re-enactment. They break to easy and are dangerous to the person using them, As well as the spectators. I will post some of my works as soon as I can scan them. I do not merchant at the festivals, because we have members that do this for the group. I could merchant some of my work, but that would take away from the group as a whole and that would violate the rules we have, so I just leave things as they are. If you can think of anything else, let me know..

Do you think we should clear the co-moderator thing with Boom first. I don't want to step on any toes of this forum..Boom works hard to keep things running and I would not want to upset the running of things here at TFF..


Thanks again...

[Christophe of Grey]

darkdragon,
Yeah, I was thinking about the Boom thing in the back of my mind when I suggested it. I'll run it by him to see what he thinks. Good bio by the way.

:balrog:

[darkdragon]

Thanks Christophe. That means alot to me..Let me know

Thanks again...

[waenlotien]

YEAH!!!! Another SCAdian hehehehe

whew, sorry was away for awhile, had my bday and got a new car!!! yeah me!!! though it will cost me an arm and a leg LOL, but my kids say it is a bday/ mother's day present hehehe

I can't wait to see some of your stuff darkdragon. I have seen Christophe's already and he does fine work. I am too chicken to show mine LOL, not really lol, just don't have digicam up and running yet. LOL

[Harrison]

I just didn't post here because there was nothing going on. Hello there Christophe.

[Christophe of Grey]

Hi back Gamigar,
Yeah I was in Vienna, Austria for 5 weeks. I'm a corporate trainer by profession and was doing some Project Management classes for the United Nations over there. I got to go through the armor museum they have there. Very nice. It focuses on parade and jousting armor but also has some archery stuff. Mostly Turkish bows and quivers. I took some shots of the quivers. My next leather working project is going to be a Turkish style quiver. Basically the Turks used bows much like the Horse Bows of today. Their quivers were short almost pocket like. What I found most interesting is that the Turkish religion did not permit the artisans to use human or nature forms in their art. As such their art was mostly geometric patterns. Also, the Turks were the sworn enemies of the peoples of Europe during the middle ages - crusades and all - but the Europeans were fascinated with Turkish stuff. Go figure! One of the plaques in the museum mentioned that Turksih archers worthy to be called archers could regularly shoot arrows 800 meters. 800 meters! That's 8 football fields in length! I couldn't event see a traget that far away! But looking at their bows, which were NOT cross bows, but rather hand draw bows, they were very high poundage. Plus the arrows were very small shafted with small fletches. Almost like modern day bamboo arrows.

So, per this thread, any ideas on what you would like to have some help making. I believe you recently made yourself some vambraces. Got any plans for something next? Darkdragon is on this thread as well and has lots of experience. I started thread as a helper thread.

:balrog:

[Sindarking01]

This is going to sound like a lot, but I have i in mind to make vambraces, quiver & back rigging in the style of the elves. like Legolas' stuff pretty much. I have never done aything with leather - working. well except pimp my vintage leather jacket. Lol just kidding. I would also like to make some.. I think they're called spaulders, but they are the leather shoulder armour leggs was wearing in the battle of Helms Deep. I know this sounds goofy and maybe even a little poserish, but I really like the stuff.

[darkdragon]

Sounds like a great idea to me Sindarking01. Many of the things that are made from leather, are products that we would like to have or are intrigued by. I dont think what you want is poserish at all. And it doesn't sound goofy either.

First.. I think you should get a good idea of the look you are going for.

Secondly.. If you cannot find drawings of what you are looking for, let me know. I make alot of my own patterns and would be happy to help you.

Third..You need to give me some idea of the thickness of the leather. Remember : The thicker the leather, the more the armour will weigh.

Fourth..Are you going to want any tooling on the armour ? Or is it going to be smooth, no tooling ?

Fifth..I would be happy to walk you through each step in making it.. Giving you insight into cutting, tooling, sewing, dying and so on.

Just let me know what help you are needing. The first step in making anything with leather is the desire to make it..You have already done that..So now lets get to the nuts and bolts of what you want to make... I will be waiting...

[waenlotien]

Darn, i used to have the pattern for all of Legos stuff, but now I cannot find the link (cries) If I find it again, i will give it to you. Maybe Christophe still has it, I sent it to him ages ago.

[Christophe of Grey]

Sindarking01,
These sound like great projects to me. Great advice from DarkDragon. The first item is to get a firm idea of what you want the finished project to look like. Now as this is your first project, may I suggest you start with the quiver. Of the items you listed here, it is the simplest of the group. You may want to do some tooling on it to give that "Elven" look. But the vines patterns are typically not that difficult and do not require that many tools. Nor, for that matter, would the entire project. Now you have some questions you will need answers to before you start. Let's assume you want the same one strap over one shoulder look as Legolis has. The question is do you also want to carry the knives and your bow on the quiver as Leggy does in the movie. The knife thing is easy. The bow thing has set me in a quandry for some time but I think I have it figured out. The issue is not getting the bow out. That's easy. But, other than movie magic, how does Leggy get the bow back in without the Gimly attachment helping? I think I have an answer for that but it will depend largely on your bow, or the one you will be using with the quiver. If you are only going to carry arrows, easy. I also have the rigging figured out as well.

The vambraces are slightly more difficult. In the movie, or if you look closely on the extended CD version, you can see that the vambraces are a wrap around style. No issue here. The issue is that they have hooks on the inside. Now that would pose a serious issue in the real world. Typically archer vambraces or arm guards are clean on the inside, no protrusions. That's so the string has nothing to catch on. There is a solution. In fact the vambrace/arm guard I use is not the wrap around style but still works nicely.

The shoulder thingies are called spauldrons. Not hard to make, EXCEPT it would require some heat forming of the leather. DarkDragon is correct about leather thickness. Question - are you actually going to use this as armor or just for looks? If for looks, you can use a thinner leather. If for armor you need to be using no less than 8 oz leather. Thicker is better. You will also need to harden the leather, cuir boleiu (spelling may be wrong there) to harden the leather. Please - leather can be hardened in manners other than boiling it in bees wax! If you need this, we will talk. There is a trick to heat treating leather than you have either stamped or carved without loosing the work. I have been through this argument with metal benders (makers of metal armor) so many times I can recite it in my sleep! Just a point of correctness - In period more fighters wore leather armor than metal armor. Firstly a suit of metal armor cost about the equivalent of a brand new top of the line Mercedes does now days. Secondly we don't have many examples because after the war the armor was cut into tankards and other items. Thirdly leather does not age like metal so we don't have many examples left. But fact of the matter is most fighters who went into battle wore leather armor!

And Wanlotein is correct, I have links and several patterns you can start with.

So good luck, post questions and DarkDragon and I shall assist as need be. Of course we require a price - you must post pictures of your finished project here on the forum. That's so the rest of us can look at and admire your work!!

:balrog:

[Yasmar]

Hi Christophe,

Ok, I'm not working on a project right now or anything, but I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me how one would do the edge of a leather project like in this picture. It looks like it is "rolled" somehow, or something, rather than being simply the cut edge you would normally have. Any input?

Thanks...

[Christophe of Grey]

Yasmar,
Now that's a tricky edge to make. You start with two pieces of leather. The outter piece, that has the carving on it, and the liner. You sew the liner and outter piece back to back. In this case, smooth side to smooth side. In essence you are sewing the pieces inside out. You can see this stitching as dimples along the edge of the roll in the photo. You then flip the liner over the edge of the outter piece so that it now becomes the liner for the outter piece with the lining smooth side out. Then stitch a second time slightly below the original stitch line. In the photo I would guess that is the white stitching you see.

This method of rolled cuffs is used a lot on cow boy cuffs. You can also put a thin strip of leather inside the roll to create a large rolled look.

What's interesting about these vambraces is that they are two part. The inner quilted part and the stiffer outter part. This would make a very comfortable functionaly protective vambrace. Of course, if it is hot they would also be quite hot! And bulky.

[Yasmar]

Thanks, Christophe...

I understand now. It does sound like a difficult process to do well...

[Christophe of Grey]

Yasmar,
If you had a sewing machine like the Tipmann Boss or better it's really not too hard. However the Boss costs about $700 to $800, just a bit much for a hobbist! I do all my sewing by hand. This is not the type of cuff I would choose to do regularly or even much!

[Yasmar]

Ha! Yeah, I don't think I'll be springing 800 bucks for a sewing machine anytime soon! If I ever feel ambitious, maybe I'll try it by hand on something simple...

[Christophe of Grey]

Sindarking,
Have you started any of your projects yet? You got us interested. What's cooking?

[Harrison]

I have a question about rivets.

[waenlotien]

here is an article i found useful on the subject, I hope it helps you

http://www.forth-armoury.com/research/peen_rivets/how_to_peen_a_rivet.htm

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
As they were wont to say in Shakespear in Love, It's a mystery.........

Actually what happens is the rivet goes into the cap then is set. When set the end of the rivet mushrooms out to fill the cap thereby being too large to pass back out the cap hole. I have seen lots of folks "set" these rivets by hitting the cap with a hammer while the rivet, passing through the leather, is sitting on a hard metal surface, i.e. the flat spot on a vise. While it works, the problem I have is now the rivet end and cap are flat. There is a special tool, not expensive, that has a round in it as well as a small metal plate with a round in it. Using this the rivet is set and both ends maintain the round shape. I think it looks better.

Now there are two types of rivets. It appears that the type you have a picture of is a single cap. That is, the end of the rivet would appear as a metal ring with a hole in the middle. This is how the rivet is formed. I use this type of rivet when the backside of the rivet wont be seen. There is also a double cap rivet wherein the backside of the rivet has a cap on it. This makes the backside of the rivet appear just like the cap, a solid round metal piece. I use these when both sides of the rivet will be visable. Both types of rivets set the same.

Now a third type of rivet, often used in heavy stress areas, i.e. armor, are copper rivets. With these you put the rivet through the project, trim as needed, then place a copper washer over the rivet shaft. You then round over the end of the rivet. These are very strong but generally not as attractive as the rivet you have pictured.

[Christophe of Grey]

waenlotien,
Good article Waenlotien. This is how to peen a copper rivet. If you don't do a good job with these rivets you often wind up with some metal that snags on everything within your county - or it seems so! Like the article says, I start with a few strikes with the round end of the peening hammer, then switch to the flat side. I take special care to get a nice flat, smooth, rounded surface. I also recommend a lighter hammer. In peening, more blows is better than a few heavy blows. I know a lot of armor makers who don't go to that trouble. But then on armor one would not need to. They also make a special tool for setting the washers and rounding over the rivet. The tool works pretty well if you have the rivet cut the correct length. If the rivet is too long, the tool tends to just bend the rivet shaft. If the rivet shaft is too short, the tool does not round enough, the washer comes off and the rivet falls out, and you stand before your foe sans armor! Most embarassing!!

[Harrison]

Hey, I'm going to order some stuff from Tandy leather, which is what I think you recommended to me a while ago. How many 100 packs of rivets should I get to start out with? And how many belt buckles should I get? I'm going to buy some leather when I have more money, but how many square feet would you recommend? Also, how many different colours?

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
FIRST I APPOLOGIZE FOR THE LENGTH OF THIS RESPONSE BUT, YOU ASKED.....
OK, first question, what do you want to make? If you are going to make a belt and your waist, or the person who will ultimately wear the belt, is about 45 inches or less, you can get a double shoulder. If the belts needs to be longer you will need to get a side. I have made belts for folks, this is NOT a story, with waists of 72 inches. And they wanted the standard ring belt with about 24 inches hanging down! I had to sift through the sides to get one long enough and at that I only get about four maybe five belts out of if. For non-armor belts I would recommend 7 - 8 or possible 8 - 10 oz leather.

Now as for color, I prefer to buy veg tan leather and color it myself. If you buy a double shoulder or side you will have lots of leather. Dyes are cheaper than having lots of leather all different colors. You can get the dyes in 4 oz bottles which is plenty to do a belt, or quart size for very big projects, or multiple projects. An added feature is you can put more than one color on the project! Check out my gallery for some of my belts. I'm getting the different colors on one project by starting with veg tan leather.

As for rivets, I would think one 100 pack would last you a while. Typically for a belt with a buckle on it, or ring, two rivets is fine. HOWEVER, if you would like to change the buckle on the belts use Chicago Screws instead. Tandy calls them Screw posts, here's a link http://www.tandyleather.com/products.asp?dept=136. I would also highly recommend getting a rivet setter http://tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=810000&variation=&aitem=32&mitem=34. It's cheap and it will give your project a professional look. If the back of the rivet won't be seen use standard rivets http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=127112&variation=&aitem=11&mitem=46, not copper rivets. If the back of the rivet will be seen or for a more professional look and minimal extra cost, get double capped rivets http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=136012&variation=&aitem=29&mitem=46

Buckles, get one for each belt. Sorry, I had to do that! But actually, again, what are you going to make? If a standard belt, one buckle per belt. If a medieval style belt that is very wide, perhaps two buckles per belt. When you buy buckles be aware of the size strap they are designed to fit on. They come in sizes from very small, about 1/2 inch, to extremely large, 3 inches or more.

Now to make you life easy when cutting the belt straps from the leather piece, get a strap cutter
http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=308000&variation=&aitem=2&mitem=3. Again, for the little extra money you get a very nice straight strap of equal width it's entire length. If you can't spring for the strap cutter at a minimum get a pair of very heavy duty scissors. Most heavy duty scissors aren't heavy enough to cut leather over 6 oz.

To finish off you projects there are a whole host of things you can use. I've been using Atom Wax lately and really like the results. A trick I learned from an old time leather worker is to use Cordovan shoe polish, a light coat, on the project. Then finish it off with neutral shoe polish. Shoe polish is made for leather and the Cordovan pre-ages the project. That is, it gives it a look of having been around for a while without actually damaging the leather. Works really cool if you've done tooling or carving on the belt.

Some other tools to make the work easier. Get a punch set http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=300300&variation=&aitem=1&mitem=98. It makes a nice clean hole for the rivets. Or you could simply drill the holes using a standard drill bit. You may also want to consider getting an oblong punch http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3156600&variation=&aitem=10&mitem=98. This punches a nice clean hole that the belt keeper, that little metal tang that goes through the belt holes, can go through.

While it seems like a lot remember any tool you buy can be used over and over. Your only expendables here are the leather and dyes. Good luck, post pictures and if you need more help I'm here for ya...............

[Harrison]

I'm not actually making a belt, I just want a few small buckles to fasten some bracers. I only have $40 at the moment, I think I'll order the rivets, buckles, the rivet setter, and maybe some dyes right now if I have enough. And then when I have more money I'll buy some leather and maybe some other tools.

[Indiana]

those vambraces above are easier than you think, theyre two! Ones the inner that laces tight on your arm, and the other is buckled over the under-brace.

[Harrison]

Okay, I just ordered some rivets, buckles, a beveling set, a rivet setter, some dyes (a deep red, a rich green and some white) and some other stuff I can't remember right now.

[Harrison]

Double capped rivets that is.

[Indiana]

What type of leather should I use for a pair of vambraces?

[Indiana]

and size

[Harrison]

That's what I need to know, I found a double shoulder piece that's 7/8 oz., which is what Christophe recommended, for about $50. I don't know if that would be good for vambraces, though.

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
OK, here's my advice for first time out. Don't do buckles. Use eyelets instead. So here is your list:
eyelets http://tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=128711&variation=&aitem=3&mitem=11 $6.99
eyelet setting anvil http://tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=180600&variation=&aitem=5&mitem=11 $1.49
eyelet setter http://tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=815300&variation=&aitem=11&mitem=11 $2.99
dye http://tandyleather.com/searchprods.asp $4.69 Of course you could skip the dye and use shoe polish. It actually provides a very high luster, deep coloring. Quite nice. But you'll have to apply several coats and work each one in thoroughly.

Total cost $16.16

The issue may be leather. Usually the shops don't sell leather by the square foot even though that's how it's priced. Scrap bags seledom have pieces large enough to make vambraces with. It's also important to make pairs of things, i.e. vambraces, from the same piece of leather. Each piece of leather takes dye just a little differently. The only shop in your location is:
Indianapolis Area
Meadowoods Center
3087 N. High School Road
Speedway, IN 46224
Toll Free 866-609-2978, Local 317-347-9948, Fax 317-347-9954
Store Manager: Lee Daugherty
indianapolis@tandyleather.com

If you get stuck on the leather, let me know. I may be able to send/sell you some from my stock at the going rate.

[Indiana]

How thick should it be though, I wasa thinking 6-7 ounce

[Christophe of Grey]

AGGGHH!! You guys are posting faster than I can get my long dissertations out!

OK, weight 7/8 is good. The vambraces will be a little stiff at first but they will break in over time. I usually plan slightly less than one square foot per vambrace. Depends a lot on shape as to how much waste there will be. Don't forget to plan for straps if you're going with the buckles.

As for dyes, deep red - good, although, and this is just my personal preference, I like Oxblood or Fiebings maroon better. It's more of a burgandy wine sort of color. Green - good. I use that when I do vines and growing things. White - disaster. Never had any luck with it. I bought a 4 oz bottle and applied ALL of it to a 2 inch strip 3 inch long. It was still a light beige when done! Usually I go with plain ol' white house paint. Acrylic paint also works quite well. If you are using an alcohol dye be sure to put a clear coat down before you apply the white paint. Else the paint tends to reconstitute the dye and you get a mix. I just did a pair of Rohan horse heads (in gallery) and the first coat was pink. The white paint picked up the burgandy dye underneath.

And BTW, the vambraces pictured on this thread are really nice but not particularly easy to make. The inner part is two layers of thin leather with some padding inbetween then quilted with sewing. The outer parts have the buckles sewn in place. I would guess the sewing was done by machine as it is so regular. Also the outer parts are double layered with an edge covering. NOT EASY! These vambraces would be very comfortable to wear all day due to the padded inner linings. Without the lining, stiff vambraces begin to hurt after about 2 hours of wear until they are broken in. Also the tooling on the vambraces is very good, not embossed like so many are.

[Harrison]

Well, I already ordered the stuff, my mom has some eyelets that I can use, I used them on my first vambraces (in gallery). I'm going to call some local apholstery stores for some info about leather, too. Where do you live, Christophe, just out of curiosity.

[Harrison]

I was thinking something like this for my vambraces.

[waenlotien]

they don't type fast Christophe, we are just to old to keep up hehehehe

thats a very nice pattern Gamigar. I think it will look very nice when you have it finished, keep us posted on your progress.

I quit working in Sept and go back to school (will have more time then) and I should be able to start posting some stuff i have made or am making. (crosses fingers hoping all goes well.)

[Harrison]

I called a local fabric store and they will sell me an entire hide for $100. Is that a good price, Chirstophe?

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
OK, back. Sorry for the delay. Was over in Raleigh, answer to Gamigar question #1, I live in North Carolina, with an ice hockey team I coach at the State Championships. Proud to say my guys came in 3rd. A very respectable position considering they were a house league playing againt travel teams!

OK, subject, focus...........

Pattern - First things first Gamigar. Make a paper pattern of the vambraces as they fit on your arm. I like your pattern but looking at what you posted I would think your arms are about 9 inch around at the wirst and perhaps, 24 inches around at the elbow. NOT LIKELY!! Make a paper pattern, then transfer your design to the pattern. As for looks, outstanding. I like it. I think the rivets will be a great addition. You might also consider, just a suggestion, rivets around the top portion/edge. (Didn't you say you ordered a 100 pack?)

Leather price - Depends. (I hate that answer too!) What weight and how many square feet? If priced for a full hide - good price, depending on weight and if upholstery leather. Compare that to Tandy or the Leather Factory (same store actually) for a better comparison. Be careful that it is not upholstery leather. It's very soft, nice to the touch, but may have a tendancy to wrinkle if used for vambraces unless it's about 5 - 6 oz. or heavier.

Eyelets - OK, duh on my part! Most fabric store also sell eyelets that work just fine on leather. Usually the kits include the anvils and setters so you might actually save some money there.

FOR WAENLOTIEN - First response - PHTTTT!!! Second response - it's not older it's like wine, aged and better. That's what I keep telling myself at least! Some day it may work....... BTW, I am not the least happy, nor are you, that you will be missing Pennsic this year and I will be deprived of the privilage of meeting you :confused:

[Harrison]

Thanks. My grandma said she knows of some little Amish shops that I might be able to get some leather from for low prices. There actually used to be a Tandy Leather in Fort Wayne, where I live. But it moved. Grrrrr....

[Harrison]

I've just been struck by inspiration. I could do something like this for the design I made since I don't have anything to bevel with. So the rivets would be decorative and would serve a purpose.

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
Actually that's a great idea. It would also allow you to use slightly lighter leather, less cost, as well. Here is a pattern I use for some of my vambraces. I included a ruler in the scan. If it doesn't print the correct size, you can use a copy machine to zoom it up or down as needed. This size should fit you pretty well. If you don't want the peaked top just round it over.

[Christophe of Grey]

The attachment......

[Harrison]

I've got a paper one all worked out. It's actually one of your patterns. I changed a little bit, though.

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
Thant's great. That's why I posted that pattern - so folks could use it. You got the right end towards the wrist.
Now to supply you with some bragging information regarding this pattern. I call it the Bytor after my knight in the SCA. Bytor has been king of Trimaris three times at this point. The last time he won crown lyst he slimmed down to 320 pounds! However, he is not a big fat guy! He is a fireman mundanely. I joke that he is the fireman who shows up when your house is on fire and carries out your refridgerator, water bed without draining and you under the other arm. He is a MOST POWERFUL human being and a real gentleman. We were doing a demo at the Bay Area Ren Faire when, as the MC of the event, I called for people in the audience who could count to five. As I was hoping, a 5 year old little girl offered. Bytor came over to her, removed his sword and swordhand gauntlet, went down on one knee, took the little girl's hand and introduced himself, "M'Lady I am Sir Bytor (he is a SCA knight). It would be my pleasure if I could escort you to review my troops." That's Earl Sir Bytor. You vambrace pattern was the pattern he wore when he last won crown lyst giving him the right to be King of Trimaris. Wear your vambrace with pride.

[Harrison]

Alright, I will. By the way, do you know of any Medievel Re-Enactment Groups around Indiana? I'm trying to get into a group but I haven't found one.

[waenlotien]

FOR WAENLOTIEN - First response - PHTTTT!!! Second response - it's not older it's like wine, aged and better. That's what I keep telling myself at least! Some day it may work....... BTW, I am not the least happy, nor are you, that you will be missing Pennsic this year and I will be deprived of the privilage of meeting you :confused:

I know, I was so looking forward to it. Darn girls don't listen at work, grrrrrrrrrrrr


first response... hehehehe
second responce... I like that, aged like fine wine, gets beter with time hehehe
third responce...but I will absolutely, posotively be there next year !!! If I have to quit!! well, I shouldn't have a job then, as I will just have finished my last college class. yeah !!!!!!!!!!! so it will be my graduation present to myself LOL

[Harrison]

I just ordered some leather to go along with all the stuff I ordered. I think in the time between my getting the supplies I ordered and the leather I'll make a frog for my sword out of some scrap I have. Yes, yes that's what I'll do.

[Christophe of Grey]

Locating SCA groups - Here are some links
www.sca.org - master SCA link
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/sca-people/ - Overall link listing kingdoms and groups within
http://www.midrealm.org/midrealm/ - Midrealm kingdom link - Indianna. Under What's Where is a link Need to Find a Local Branch. BTW Midreal does an outstanding job of kingdom level camp display at Pennsic. Very, very royal!

One of the beauties of being a member of this club is you can go anywhere in the world and find friends who are in it!

[Harrison]

Thanks, I've added the little spike on the end of my vambrace design. I've also changed the decorations on it. What I'm gonna do is have the vambrace a dark-reddish colour and then have a 1/2" or so trim that is green with rivets spaced out around the trim.

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
Sounds great! Be sure to post pictures so we can all appreciate your efforts!

[waenlotien]

yes please do share with us!!
hopefully i will be able to share some stuff soon, but sending laptop off to be fixed, then when i get it back i will share.

[Indiana]

Hmm... on those SCA sites for Indiana, my county isnt claimed!! :( Its jefferson, it the southern part. What does this mean?

[Harrison]

I'll share with you guys as soon as I can. I've made a stamp of a horseshoe for all of my work, too. So people will know what's mine.

[Christophe of Grey]

Indiana,
Not knowing your state, best I can figure you are in the Region of Constellation, as listed at this link http://www.midrealm.org/seneschallorum/index.phtml#Constellation. You might look through the contacts there and find the one closest to your home town. At worst case, send them an email and ask. Sometimes groups are formed in areas but are too new to get listed on the kingdom contacts pages. That's been the case with my local group. We are a sub-group to the Barony of Sacred Stone and are not listed on the Atlantia web site. Dissed by the Kingdom! Boo, hiss, a pox upon thee!!

[Harrison]

If I were to join I would be in The Shire of Shadowed Stars.

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
Well you don't have to be a member to go to the events. I recommend to people to go to a few events then decide if you want to become an official member. It's the "try before you buy" program. This works out good because you are then identified as a newbie and people are more likely to show you around and explain things. The first few events can sometimes be a bit overwhelming. So much going on, belts to watch (the color signifies rank), mdalions of office, coronets, crowns and circlets, barons, baronesses, counts, countesses, princes, princesses, kings, queens, sirs, dukes, dutcheses, and dons. Then there's the lyst, court, peers, pelicans, laurels, protoges, apprentices, and bards. And for the fighting you have the heavies that fight sword and board, two handers, pike, pole arms, madu, axe, and hammer. And the "weenie wire" guys who fence without or without a cape, firearm (period rubber band model), two handed or left handed, and often the tavern brawl. And the ladies gallery, the water bearers, the heralds, the minister of the lyst, and the royal retainers. And least we forget the chiurgeons and the -crat team that make it all happen. Of course the feast is usually the high light of the day. All very confusing at first. Slowly it all makes sense. In fact, the bards have a song about it. It's title - Freaking the Mundanes.

[waenlotien]

Hmm... on those SCA sites for Indiana, my county isnt claimed!! :( Its jefferson, it the southern part. What does this mean?

Actually I serached for you and there is a section of the sca for you.

You would be in The Barony of Shattered Crystal.
http://www.shatteredcrystal.org/

email... lamorris@accessus.net, they are the local "welcome wagon" for your area. See if they have anything in your area going on.

Best of luck.

[Harrison]

I've finished my vambraces. Here they are...

[Yasmar]

Hey, those turned out pretty nice, Gamigar! Good job!

[Harrison]

Thank you. It only took me a day. I was surprised. I thought it would take longer.

[waenlotien]

wow, very nice work for only a days time

[Harrison]

Thank you.

[waenlotien]

your very welcome

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
Great job on those vambraces!

[Deferr]

Amen to that. Of course I saw them being made step by step since Gamigar is my brother.

[Christophe of Grey]

Gamigar,
Going back and looking at your vambraces, a suggestion for next time. No big deal, just a different idea. The buckels you used look like light weight harness buckles and it looks like you fastened them to the strap by looping the leather around the end of one of the bales. There is a tool called an oblong punch http://leatherfactory.com/index.asp?code=HT%20PUNRND&PageNumber=7&submit=GO that punches a slot with round ends. You pass the tang of the buckle through this slot, folding the strap back over the center bar with the tang on it and rivet it. When you slip the other strap end through the buckle it automatically holds the excess strap down. i.e. A pants belt uses a keeper to hold the extra strap down. Harness buckles do it all in one. For vambraces it keeps the strap ends from flapping about and catching on stuff.

[MirkwoodsArcher]

Those bracers look great Gamigar, They really only took a day!! that's amazing

:draught:

Maybe I'll have a go after seeing those :, )

[Christophe of Grey]

Hey folks, Gamigar has been PMing me about how I do/did the basket weave quiver. Are other folks interested in this? If so, post here and I'll be happy to "reveal the secrets" to successful basket weaving. It's really not that hard. At least after you've done it 400 times! JUST KIDDING!!

[Christophe of Grey]

Sorry, I should have added that I have a picture of my basket weave quiver in the gallery if you would like to take a look before answering the question.

[Kelvay]

I was wanting some help as I am new to leatherworking and giving it a go. I am just starting and have bought 4 2-3 oz hides with wich I plan on making beltpouches and other small things with. I have got a set of crafting needles and I have the leather. I was wondering what kind of string I should use? I was thinking I should use upohlstry grade but was not sure. Also where can I find buckles and buttons that will work well with leather. Any other help would be appreciated and I am learning more as I read this forum. I am truely a novice and would appreciate any help. Thanks.

[waenlotien]

I use thinner strips of leather, you can get some at craft stores, it is called leather lace. I also use "cat gut", it is synthetic and wax covered. I get mine at a craft store as well, it is what you see on most dream catchers.

the little buckles and buttons you could get at a craft store as well. also, if you can get an antler those make good buttons too. more "authentic" looking.

Christophe is the resident expert, if he doesnt check in for awhile, send him an email LOL